From pad Thai to dumplings, this vegetarian ate her way through Bangkok

Eating in Bangkok should be easy, after all there is so much to choose from — boat noodles, pad Thai, phat kaphrao, and as much mango sticky rice as your stomach can take. But is it easy for a vegetarian?

By the time I arrived in Bangkok and checked into my hostel, it was lunchtime. The cheese toastie from 7/11 was not going to cut it. I had heard about the lack of vegetarian options and while it did scare me, I had done my research.

I am a strong believer that every culture in the world has traditionally vegan or vegetarian dishes on their menu because it is not financially feasible to eat meat every day. With that hope, I set out on the streets of Bangkok, armed with my little book of notes and an international Internet pack loaded on my phone. I got intel from fellow backpackers who were lounging in the common area about a small Thai curry spot right by the nearby pharmacy.

Jasmine Siam Kitchen in Ratchathewi 
| Photo Credit:
Sangita Rajan

Jasmine Siam Kitchen in Ratchathewi was fairly easy to spot. My heart was set on the tofu Thai green curry with sticky rice, and maybe a beer. I settled at a table by the window and placed my order with the sweet-looking Thai aunty who confirmed twice to make sure I really wanted tofu and not chicken. A small plate filled with sliced mangoes was set in front of me, and I looked at it with starry eyes. Mangoes in November?

After inhaling them in record time, I waited patiently for the main course, pretending to read my book. A large bowl of pale green Thai curry with vegetables and tofu was brought to me along with a plate of sticky rice and some salad. The fragrance of jasmine rice, along with the kaffir lime and lemongrass in the curry, made my stomach rumble. Needless to say, I wiped the bowl clean in 15 minutes.

 Chao Phraya river
| Photo Credit:
Sangita Rajan

While I wanted to explore a lot of hyper-local vegetarian food, I was also a tourist in a new country. Convenience was key. Walking down narrow alleyways behind the BTS stations to search for some spot I had found on Google Maps was not convenient, especially when I was making my way through all the malls of Bangkok.

In Siam Paragon, the chaotic and vast food court on the ground floor was iconic. I first had to find a place to sit (wish me luck), and then made a beeline to Thipsamai for their legendary pad Thai. They had a tofu version loaded with peanuts and a sticky sweet and sour sauce that hit all the right spots. I also got some veggie spring rolls and a watermelon juice to beat the heat. Thipsamai is a chain with locations all over the city, so it wins the convenience jackpot.

Pad Thai at Thipsamai 
| Photo Credit:
Sangita Rajan

Bangkok is a city of contrasts and extravagance, and no trip is complete without a fancy rooftop dining experience. It was a difficult task to choose from the numerous rooftop dining spots, and then I found Le Du Kaan. Led by Thai Michelin-star Chef Thitid Ton, Le Du Kaan has many things on the menu for vegans and vegetarians, and none of them felt like a consolation prize.

I started the meal with the tom saap hed, a spicy and sour mushroom soup, which was refreshing and light. For the appetiser, I went for the grilled pumpkin in mushroom sauce, fuk thong yang, which was a sweet and savoury delight, and the cauliflower steak served with a Thai coriander chimichurri. For the main course, their signature take on traditional pad Thai came with a spicy tamarind sauce, lots of tofu, peanuts, and bean sprouts. Their extensive cocktail and mocktail menu has some hidden gems with locally brewed spirits, which paired perfectly with the 360-degree views from the 56th floor.

 Tom Saap Hed at Le Du Kaan
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

While out sightseeing, I made a stop at the famous K Panich for the Michelin Guide-approved mango sticky rice. For lunch, I headed to Phed Mark in Sukhumvit for the vegetarian pad kar pao. My go-to dinner fix after a long day of being out and about was ordering in from the locally famous food delivery app, Grab. I picked up a drink from the nearest 7/11 and scrolled through the restaurants, carefully reading the descriptions after turning on translations in the settings. My top order was a mushroom cheeseburger from Shake Shack, or just a simple fried rice from a local joint.

Mushroom cheese burger at Shake Shack
| Photo Credit:
Sangita Rajan

I had set aside the last day in the city to ride the ferry along the Chao Phraya river. There are multiple tourist spots to explore along the river, so I got on the hop-on-hop-off tourism boat. I started at the Grand Palace, moved along to Wat Pho, the flower market, and made a stop at Bangkok’s famous Chinatown.

The Song Wat road near Chinatown is known for street art and architecture, and it made for a great midday cocktail stop. Barbon, a craft beer and cocktail bar overlooking the river, was a great option. For a light lunch, I headed to the famous Gu Long Bao. They serve a plant-based pork bao along with taro, sesame, and sweet bao buns.

Menu spread at Siam Tea Room
| Photo Credit:
Sangita Rajan

After spending some more time in Chinatown and taking pictures of the pretty streets and buildings, I got back on the ferry and headed to the Asiatique The Riverfront. I took my time exploring the vast open mall, rode the ferris wheel, checked out the vintage ship stationed on the riverfront, and went to the Mystery Mansion haunted house tour. As the sun began to set, I headed to the Siam Tea Room to enjoy a performance of cultural Thai dance. They have an extensive vegetarian menu with spring rolls, dumplings, Thai curries, and more local specialities.

As I watched the dancers move gracefully under the warm lights of the Siam Tea Room, full from yet another satisfying meal, I realised how misplaced my initial worries had been. Bangkok had not just fed me — it had overwhelmed me, delighted me, and reminded me that adventure always finds a way. 

This writer was in Bangkok at the invitation of Marriott International